“In the last couple of months, I needed to seek shelter for my love affair with fashion,” he wrote, explaining that he’d found solace in darts and notches, shoulder lines and armholes.
On each seat sat a white card bearing a message from Demna, the brand’s artistic director. The Business of Fashion was calling it Balenciaga’s “make-or-break” moment the Times, “the single most fraught show of the season.” The brand was trying to recover from a pair of botched ad campaigns that, in December, had led to a wild farrago of accusations, including that it had sexualized children and condoned child abuse. It was eleven-thirty on a Sunday morning in March-the Mass hour, Balenciaga’s traditional slot on the Paris Fashion Week calendar-and editors, buyers, clients, and the odd quidnunc had gathered at the Carrousel du Louvre, a cavernous mall under the museum, to attend the presentation of the house’s Fall 2023 collection. Nervous coughs going around like the wave.
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